How to sew a skirt-pants and what pattern to take as a basis?

Women in the modern world live and work, often in a furious rhythm on a par with men. This inevitably influenced the appearance of the fair sex and women's fashion.

Therefore, the main subject of clothing became pants of all kinds and colors, beloved by women for their convenience and comfort in wearing. At the same time, the representatives of the fair sex tend to remain feminine and attractive - then they come to the rescue of uniquely cut pants, called the skirt-pants.

The surprisingly comfortable style of this clothing allows women not to wrestle with what to wear - a skirt or trousers, as the culottes (the professional name of this piece of clothing) combine the virtues of both.

They allow you to make the image feminine and stylish, while leaving it comfortable. Due to the free cut, tight-fitting waist and extending down from the upper part of the thigh, women with absolutely any type of figure can wear this type of trousers - the flaws will be reliably hidden from prying eyes.

For the first time this unusual construction appeared in the thirties of the nineteenth century in Holland. Then the idea of ​​wearing a woman’s things like men’s seemed inconceivable. According to legend, one Dutch woman loved walking on a bicycle, and it was extremely inconvenient to make them in a dress. Then she found a way out - she created unusually wide trousers that looked like a skirt from the side.

Since then, the appearance of this type of clothing has not changed much - variations have been created with only a few innovations.

In the modern world there are a huge number of specialized magazines in which you can find the necessary patterns. When using a finished piece, the sewing process is greatly simplified, but it is necessary to make adjustments depending on the features of the shape.

To create a pattern of such original trousers, you will need to find a pattern of a regular straight skirt, and with its help you can easily create culottes of any style and length. There are really very many similarities in these two variations of women's clothing, and understanding them will help you master the creation of fashionable wide trousers without any problems.

We list only the measurements that are needed to build a drawing of the future skirt. See photo below. This is a guide for those who want to build a straight skirt pattern.

We turn again to the modeling of fashionable culottes. On the pattern of a straight skirt you need to make some changes. Need to draw a step cut. The following measurements will be required: seat height (BC), hips circumference (ON). The photo shows how to take such measurements.

Next, draw. Consider the front panel:

• From point 1 down we postpone the measurement BC + (0-2) and put the point 2.
• From mark 2 up we lay 1/8 ON - 2 and put a full stop 4.
• From the mark 2 to the left you need to draw a segment equal to 1/8 ON - 2. Put the point 3.
• A straight line connects points 3.4. The bisector from the top of the corner divides it in half.
• The bisector is divided into equal parts.Through the middle of the bisector draw a smooth line. Step cut ready.

At the next pattern from point 5 down, we postpone the segment BC + (0-2), we get the mark 6. From point 6 we draw a segment equal to 1/8 ON + 2. The point 7 is obtained. The next step is similar to the previous one, with one correction. The bisector is divided into parts: ½ and ½ +0.5 cm. It is visually better to look at the photo.

Oblique modeling involves placing the warp threads at an angle of 45 degrees. Due to this position, the material becomes very plastic and elastic, it can be stretched. Variants of cutting the sun and half-sun are made just in this way. The cut on the side helps to create a very feminine silhouette, due to the fact that all the bends of the body are gently emphasized, but at the same time freedom of movement is preserved.

To create products cut in this way, much more fabric is required. However, it is worth it - clothes, stitched along a scythe, visually slim and hide flaws.

Formerly, dense, heavy fabrics were used for sewing culottes, and the silhouette was made straight and wide, with length to the ground. Now, most designers choose light, flowing fabrics. Summer models are made of cotton materials, but they, for all the environmental and comfort socks, have one major drawback - it is very easy to crumple and lose their presentable appearance. These disadvantages are deprived of knitted materials with a small addition of synthetics.

Appear and leather models. For lovers of country style and denim skirts appeared trousers from denim. Such a variety of fabrics allows you to pick up a thing that is close in style to what you like, but at the same time make the daily look original and memorable. It is surprising that any material really suits for such a wardrobe item: they will fit stylishly and organically into the image of both trousers from airy chiffon and culottes from a harsh raincoat. The choice of fabric depends on where you want to wear this skirt - in the office during the working hours of the day, at a formal event or at a summer picnic.

The choice of material affects the choice of model, which is better to create from it:

• Taking a dense, heavy material as a basis, you can sew culottes with numerous folds that diverge from the hip line. This model will be suitable for business meetings or walks around the city.
• Models for romantic dates and summer travel are created from translucent drapery fabrics. A constructive basis for them is a cut like the sun or a half-sun with a smooth expansion downwards.

There is a huge variety of different models of pants of this cut, allowing you to choose the model for each woman that will look perfect on her. They vary in length, flare degree, number of folds.

Optimally choose the type of pants, focusing on your type of figure:

• For obese women, the pants will be ankle-length or half-length pants. The flared canvas perfectly hides the flaws in the legs and visually slims the figure, it also eliminates the fullness of the hips and the missing waist.
• The length of the maxi is suitable for girls with narrow hips - it is better for them to choose a model with a smell. The essential nuance that should be remembered when choosing a long flared skirt is that it is recommended to wear it with shoes with heels, otherwise there is a risk of visually weighting the figure and reducing height.

• Midi length skirt pants suit tall women with slender legs, since flared leg lengths up to the middle of the shin can additionally conceal growth and disrupt proportions.
• Visually correct the silhouette of the girls with the figure of the type of "inverted triangle" will help wide skirt just below the knee. She will intelligently balance the massive upper body, making the figure feminine and harmonious.

• Short culottes like young girls. They are great for discos, parties with friends, going to the cinema.
• The model with folds on the elastic band is perfect for walking in nature or along the seashore, in such trousers it will be convenient and comfortable. The peculiarity of the pattern of pants with an elastic band consists in the absence of darts in the waist area and a single cut belt.
• In addition, designers create culottes with low or high waist, decorate them with cuts and buttons, and often complement them with hidden pockets.

Already finished cut pattern laid out on the fabric. The fabric is folded in half face down. The drawing is laid out in the direction of the share thread. We pin with tailor's pins and draw on the fabric along the contour. Should make a reservation about tucks. The darts are drawn, but not cut.

The full contour of the culottes is circled again with seam allowances and cut. Allowances for seams from the bottom of the leg are taken 3-4 cm. This allowance is made taking into account the shrinkage of the fabric.

Nuances when cutting:

• Allowances for stitches when cutting are taken to be the same for any fabric - 1-1.5 cm.
• The darts will need to be stitched up. This is done to better fit the product at the waist.

The finished parts of the skirt trousers are ready for us, you can start sewing. They should be 5 pieces: the back panel 2 pieces, the front panel - 2 pieces, belt - 1 piece. Accuracy and compliance with safety regulations will not be superfluous.

Scissors should be kept away so that when basting and sewing, do not accidentally cut the finished parts:

• For novice needlewomen you can lay copying trap. They will help to properly sweep the product and lay a flat outline.
• The first thing you need to sew darts on two panels of the skirt.
• We sew step cut on the skirt of trousers.
• Sew a zipper on the side or on the back panel.
• We sweep and sew the side seams.
• Culottes are almost ready.
• It remains to stitch the belt, make a loop and sew a button. The belt folds double, inside should fit flizelin.
• Do not forget to process the bottom of the pants in any known way.
• Thus, it is not difficult to sew a skirt-pants, even without having for this special pattern and much experience.

Culottes come in different styles. Wrap-around culottes - skirt pants that can be worn at any event: a formal reception, meeting with friends or studying at the university. We will sew culottes shown in the photo. But! Instead of a bodice there will be a belt.

To create a skirt-trousers will be needed: zipper, a small piece of non-woven fabric for belts, threads and tools: needles, pins, scissors, pencil and ruler. Then the fabric is folded in half, face inward. Patterns of trouser panels are superimposed so that the fabric's longitudinal thread is parallel to the stepping line.

We simulate a ready-made kylot pattern. The rear panel remains unchanged. We are interested in the second pattern. Look at the photo. The trousers have folds. They imitate the smell.

On the front panel to draw the width of the folds. The width of the back part is equal to the distance between the 2 darts. From the beginning of the tuck to the left, you need to postpone 2 cm and draw a straight line to the end of the product.

Now we measure the distance from the right end of the tuck to the step cut. According to the following formula, we obtain the desired odor calculation. Fold (2cm + distance from the right end of the tuck to the slice). Example: calculation with a photo (2 + 7 = 9). Multiply this result by 2. The fold passes through the entire length. It can be left the same, add or reduce. An example with a photo, we take 6 cm x2 = 12 cm. Click on the photo.

We have calculations, now we are cutting the kylot pattern in a straight line. On a newspaper or paper, make our changes and glue the pattern.

The second fold is modeled as follows. From the side slice take any distance. In our example, 6 cm and cut the pattern from the top, not reaching the side slice a few mm. Formula for the fold: 6cm x 2 = 12 cm. Spread the pattern to the width of the fold. Auxiliary lines build the second fold. Click on the photo.

We should have such a pattern.

Brief technology of sewing with the smell:

• Cut culottes on the fabric, cut. Sewing of the product begins: the tucks are swept away and sewn up on a typewriter, the seams are ironed. Step cuts are swept away, and allowances are ironed out.
• Lay all the necessary folds on the front panel. To fold did not move, you can fasten them with pins. Folds can also be ironed and secured with large stitches. On the fabric itself folds can be outlined with chalk or snares.
• A secret zipper is sewn into the back panel in a step-by-step cut. The line is laid as close as possible to the zipper teeth, so that there are no lightning bands on the front side.
• Before you lay any machine line, look, whether all folds are executed correctly.
• Next come the usual steps of sewing a kylot.
• Attention! A buttoned loop on the belt will be at the back.

Then the final wet-heat treatment of the product is carried out. Add a voluminous sweater and voila to it - the wrap-up skirt is ready!

Pattern skirt pants - a detailed video right now.